This account is based through my observation of religious practices and presence so far on this trip. In Thailand, Buddhism is very closely intertwined with culture. In present day Bangkok, Buddhist shrines and paraphernalia are visible pretty much everywhere. It is not uncommon to see a person stop in the middle of the road, press their hands together with their heads bowed as a mark of respect when passing these religious totems. One such example is the four faced Buddha near Erawan Shopping Mall. It is located under a BTS overpass and is constantly being showered with offerings. Traffic jams are known to have occurred just from the constant influx of people who take time out en route to work, school or any destination to worship. Taxi drivers will actually take their hands off the steering wheel and turn their bodies towards these shrines mid-drive! While this may seem a little dangerous to most people, it is a completely normal routine here in Bangkok. Buddhism is ingrained into the local culture and regardless of age, socio-economic make up or creed, most Thais will go out of their way to say prayers no matter where they are or what they are doing.
Men and women alike sit on street corners and footways threading flowers into garlands to be used as offerings. Many shops have a small offering or symbol out front and can be as simple as a cup of water with a burning joss stick alongside it.
Wats or temples are scattered throughout the city. From modest buildings to whole complexes, these places of worship continue to be a central theme in everyday life. Not much has changed in practice over the years as Thailand continues to cultivate and subsequently maintain a Buddhist culture. Temples were initially common areas for people to congregate and hold activities in earlier times. It still remains so to this day, with the average Thai person visiting a temple multiple times a week.
Today we visited Wat Arun, a huge temple complex on the banks of the Chao Phraya, across the river from Central Bangkok. Wat Arun translates to “Temple of the Dawn”. It is named as such because it reflects the early morning sun. The main “prang” or tower stands 250 m tall and has become one of Bangkok’s most recognizable landmarks.
As we were eating our lunch post-temple visit, a group of acolytes disembarked on to our pier carrying laptops. As monks are not allowed any worldly possessions, it suggests that the young monks-to-be are now undergoing their training and initiation electronically. Thailand has somehow managed to preserve their religious beliefs and practices and at the same time adapt it to contemporary lifestyles.
Shortly after, we made our way to the amulet market. Endless shops and stalls on either side of the street were selling amulets bearing images of Buddha and venerated monks. These amulets are worn as a form of protection. Some of the aforementioned respected monks have actually cashed in on their popularity and have their own amulet shops or have amulets created in their image. Workshops carrying out major figurines and statute making for home shrines and temples were also in abundance, with professional and seasoned sculptors chipping away at large blocks of stone. Buyers for business were seen examining amulets up close for quality with the assumption that they will be bought in bulk to be sold elsewhere.
I feel that to a certain extent, the idea of religion and culture is highly commoditized and reproduced constantly. But this has actually promoted and kept alive the ties between religion and the everyday.
Because achieving Nirvana is the ultimate Buddhist goal, it has influenced the Thais in their behavior, whether directly, or indirectly. Respect is key, and is at the very basis of the Thai’s hierarchal culture. Even when buying stuff off a street vendor, Thais still make it a point to “wai” each other, the practice of palms held together with the head bowed slightly, fingertips touching the face. Thais are taught to show respect to parents, elders and authority, religious or not.
What it comes down to is that the Thai practice of Buddhism has become a way of life for its people. With over 95 per cent of the population being Buddhist, it is no wonder we observe such politeness, helpfulness and hospitality from the Land of Smiles.
Farah Zulkefly, 23 is in her third year of a Bachelor of Arts, majoring in Journalism and Communications. She is a self-confessed nerd slash diva spouting random facts from botany to hair dye. She enjoys looking at pictures of interiors and architecture.
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