Chao Mae Tuptim Shrine

By Munira Mutaher
Photos from Google Images

Hopping onto the Bangkok Modern Terminal (BMT) at Phloem Chit after a long evening at Khao San, we headed towards Central Chidlom and on to Nai Lert Park. As soon as we turned down Soi Somkid, we were staring at what seemed like a never-ending alleyway with no lights. This was definitely no tourist attraction or busy area; the back streets of Soi Somkid is home to the Chao Mae Tuptim shrine. 

At the entrance of the park is a sign with the following: 

The origins of Chao Mae Tuptim are obscure. It can only be recalled that a spirit house was built by Nai Lert for the Spirit who was believed to reside in the large Sai (Ficus) tree.

The secret shrine of Chao Mae Tuptim.

The Chao Mae Tumptin goddess lies inside the spirit house surrounded by offerings of white-jasmine wreaths, incense sticks and a far-less conservative gift – what seemed to be a sea of mushrooms that turned out to be a garland wrapped, ribbon-tied penises of various materials. A word not usually associated or said in religious vicinities, in  the middle of the park the phallus-shaped gifts have been collected over the years amounting to thousands.

"Garland wrapped, ribbon-tied penises".

The background and history of the shrine remains relatively vague and one account claims that Chao Mae Tuptim was a Chinese deity who lived on an island in the South China Sea. When the Hainanese and Teochew Chinese began migrating to Thailand, those who lived near bodies of water erected a shrine to commemorate her and believed that she protected the fishermen and sailors. 

To understand the overdose of phallic shaped lingams, we heard of a legend where a worshipper became pregnant after making a request with offerings of flowers and incense sticks to the goddess at the Nai Lert park. As a token of thanks for her child, the woman had left a phallic offering and soon word got around about the success of her request. Other women who faced infertility then approached the shrine but instead of only bearing gifts of flowers and incense sticks, they brought phalluses. 

A woman holds flower offerings as she prays to the deity.

The phallus lingams are fabled to have its roots in the Hindu god, Shiva and phallic-shaped amulets are sold at markets for good luck and protection while some even believe it to have a positive effect on businesses.

According to the book, Spiritual abodes in Thailand, the spirit’s powers are said to be far broader granting all kinds of wishes such as winning the lottery or profitable businesses and in return it was believed she had a special preference for phallic objects. 

From wooden carvings to large stone sculptures the shrine represents a female fertility spirit amongst many other things. This hidden shrine containing ‘obscure’ lingams is quite shocking given the polite and gentle nature of the Thai people. 

Phallic shaped lingams that have accumulated over the years. 

Despite having to jump over gates and encounter dogs in an attempt to view the shrine, it is definitely one of the must-sees when visiting Bangkok as despite the usual tourist spots, it is the small unusual attractions that make Bangkok the unique city that it is. 

After hailing a cab as soon as we could, we jumped in and headed to the nearest road-side eatery to down a giant bowl of tom yam before returning to our temporary home, the Golden Palace Hotel.

Munira Mutaher, 19, is currently pursuing a Bachelor of Arts degree majoring in International Studies and Communications and has a weakness for perfected crème brûlée.